10/26/15

Conflicts ancient and modern

We started today with a farewell to Jordan and our guide George. He left us wanting more of his gentle and gracious manner, not to mention his knowledge of so many things. He and Samir our bus driver left us at the crossing to Israel. There is considerable space on either side where there are remains of defensive positions in the midst of hillocks and vegetable fields. Two and a half hours to get through the process… and I am left with the impression that this may be a good day here.
 
Masada from a distance

From the top of Masada - looking down on Roman camp



We were met by our new shepherdess, Ahuva. The first stop for this little flock; Masada. This was a mountaintop fortress constructed by a paranoid megalomaniac by the name of Herod (the Great). Again, we see the most remarkable engineering for the management of water. It was constructed with a palace for Herod, but is best known as the final stand for the Jewish Zealot rebellion from Rome in 73/74 CE. Here, almost a thousand men, women and children chose to die by their own hand rather than succumb to slavery and degradation. It has become a rally cry for Zionists. I don’t know if I could make that choice… but perhaps I do not know anything other than what it is to be free.

Then we went on to Qumran, the isolated colony looking on to the Dead Sea who wrote the Dead Sea Scrolls. It was a very conservative group who finally joined the last stand on Masada. Minus the tourists, it would indeed be far from the madding crowd.

The cave of the Dead Sea Scrolls
Our last stop of the day was to be the oldest continuously inhabited city on earth, Jericho. The current conflicts between the over-keen on both sides have lead to the strong advice to not go into Jericho today; advice which although we were sad to receive, we were happy to follow.


Looking East across the Dead Sea from Masada
And finally, we have pulled into Jerusalem at sunset, after climbing what seemed a greater rise than from Saskatchewan Crossing to the Icefields. Not much wonder that the road from Jerusalem to Jericho (or visa versa – through some pretty rough country I might add) had a bit of a reputation.